Fashion
Ode to the tie: the F/W 2023-2024 celebrates the iconic accessory in a genderless key
The tie as a new genderless symbol: Valentino revolutionizes archetypes and through the punk dress code writes a genderless F/W 2023-2024
In the world of punk, the tie for women has always represented a strong symbol of emancipation, to appropriate that same credibility that seemed to be recognized only to men. And not only in punk , in many sectors it was like this. An event in history that Maison Valentino appropriates to undermine the symbolic value of the accessory and revolutionize it to make it genderless. Symbolic and aesthetically refined, elegant, rigorous and seductive, these are the looks of the autumn/winter 2023-2024 collection that the maison tells us about.
Valentino fall/winter 2023-2024: the tie is the key accessory
Thanks to Pierpaolo Piccioli's acuity, creativity but also critical spirit on the present, each Valentino fashion show is a lesson in style and ethics: "Symbols have always been charged by social conventions, so I worked to build a uniform that highlights the differences. And therefore, arrive at a uniform that is ready to be transformed into a personal look . Also because I believe it is necessary for fashion to create obsessions” , this is how the maison's press release summarized the essence of the show where the thin tie was the object of the semiotic transformation.
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In fact, the collection takes the name of Black Tie , where the thin tie worn by men and women stands out against white shirts: from a symbol of Yuppie capitalism, the accessory as it has been re-interpreted in the world of music, now stands as a flag of gender equality , of respect, of a genderless fashion. And women are rediscovering a new meaning in this accessory stolen from the male wardrobe in the past to appropriate their power: now in the Valentino universe, everyone wears it, without distinction and claim, celebrating the beauty of personalizing the look on an equal footing.
Strike an uniform: the uniform look from casual to elegant, a new dimension
To talk about equality, Valentino draws on the dress code of the uniform but everyone interprets it according to his taste and sensitivity: for this reason, the white shirt with tie coexists beautifully with an overcoat with feathers, with shorts or a black and white loose jacket. And naturally with the Valentino dress code, the rockstud detail that finds its maximum expression in a punk collection.
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Not only on shirts, the tie will also coexist very well with long, tunic, wide and graceful dresses in a key that is not only basic: lime, red, light blue , the secret to making the tie stand out is the contrast, even with transparencies. A glance also on the bottom of the looks: shorts, miniskirts, very few trousers, to play also on stratifications of lengths and volumes, the jewels are in fact flashy, medium-sized and full-bodied circles. Moccasins, ankle boots, socks and combat boots steal the footwear scene as an alternative to décolleté, even on elegant looks
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