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Sculptural dresses and gold details: Schiaparelli’s Haute Couture illuminates Paris


Haute Couture fashion show

From chaos to essentials: Schiaparelli’s spring / summer 2022 collection is an escape from reality, told in three shades.

In terms of surreal and metaphysical terms in the imaginary of the fashion system, the first name that approaches it is that of Schiaparelli, whose hermetic and contemporary dress code continues to veer towards pop. Thanks to a style that is now immediately recognizable, because if you see gold jewels and garments that enhance the beauty of the body’s anatomy, perhaps even worn by well-known faces such as Chiara Ferragni ‘s, then you almost certainly know that the look in question is a ‘ Schiaparelli’s idea.

This time, however, the creative director Daniel Roseberry , while giving Paris Fashion Week a show in the well-known style of the brand, suggested looking at the collection with a different perspective: a spring / summer 2022 that does not probe the surreal, but pushes itself out of the chaos, aiming for the sky.

Schiaparelli: the spring / summer 2022 fashion show that opens Paris Fashion Week is monumental

If it is true that every show of the French high fashion house always gives the feeling of entering a museum and getting lost one by one in the sculptures interpreted by the models, this time it was the choice of location to make the catwalk even more monumental. the Petit Palais on the Champs-Élysées , which contributed with its marble setting to make the moment even more sacred.

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Never fear that a Schiaparelli collection may be predictable, even now that the style has become recognizable, because Roseberry explained how elementary this collection really is. Thus, the passage from the search for the surreal to that of the Empyrean takes place, that is towards the sky to escape the chaos, and the elements to grasp this new code by carefully observing the clothes-sculptures, become identifiable.

A not casual choice, because just as it is difficult to tell the beauties of the sky – Dante has given us proof about it -, in the same way Roseberry wanted to share his concept of fashion, aimed at surprising to the point of not being able to tell about it. beauty in its spring-summer 2022 : “I design to make people feel something. When clothes, accessories, hair, music and the movement of the wearer are in harmony, when the whole tries to communicate something, we can remember why we love fashion, because I love fashion. Not for celebrities, not for likes, not for reviews. Rather because, when it is done well, when it has something to tell us, it can help us feel the elusive. Because it still has the power to move us , “ explained the designer.

Gold jewels and accessories on dresses in games of black, white and gold: Roseberry’s elementary nature

Extensions of very long golden nails, handbags in the shape of mouths, large rings for the nipples and necklaces with scales of justice, are the accessories of the guests to the fashion show in pendant with the accessories that equally sparkled on Schiaparelli’s spring / summer 2022 dresses. On silhouettes in black and white drawn on the bodies of the models, Roseberry shows small works of art that pay homage to the sun, the stars, the sky and the universe : this is what it means for the designer to celebrate the empyrean and return to ‘essential, to the elementary.

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Halos, geometric, monumental, transforming dresses that tell stories as well as enhance the curves and secrets of the female body, transform the models into madonnas and venus, in a game of sacred and profane that gives the collection more mystery and less contemporaneity. A dress code certainly for a few and not akin to the canons of pret a porter, but an invitation to choose accessories that enhance the look, so much so that they become more impressive than the clothes themselves.


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